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Read This Before You Buy A Butcher Block Countertop

Updated: Oct 14

DIY butcher block look | budget-friendly laundry room makeover | plywood countertop tutorial


a laundry room with unfinished wooden cabinets and wood counter top that is stained dark brown

Let me save you some money.


Butcher block countertops are gorgeous — no question. But they’re also expensive, heavy, and only come in standard depths. For my laundry room, that just wasn’t going to work.


I needed a countertop wide enough to cover my oversized washer and dryer — something that looked intentional and custom but didn’t blow the budget. So instead of buying a pricey slab, I decided to build my own.


Here’s how I created a beautiful, custom “butcher block” look using plywood, a few simple tools, and some coffee-brown stain magic.



The Plan


Real butcher block was over $300 for the size I needed (ouch). My solution?

¾-inch maple plywood. It’s affordable, lightweight, and can be customized to any size or shape.


Pro tip: most hardware stores will cut it to your exact measurements — just triple-check those numbers before you go. 😉


For our space, I went with a 30-inch depth to fully cover our extra-large washer and dryer. That deeper counter made the whole laundry wall feel built-in and polished.



Step-by-Step: How to Build a Faux Butcher Block Countertop


  1. Build the Base


If you’re using scraps (like I did), glue and clamp them together to make one big surface. If you’re starting with a fresh sheet, skip this step and enjoy your head start.


  1. Cut It Down to Size


No need for a table saw. A circular saw + a clamped-on straight edge works perfectly. Take it slow and steady for clean lines.


  1. Optional Cutouts


I notched out a small section for my vacuum, but you can skip that step if you don't need it.


  1. Add Trim for the “Butcher Block” Illusion


Here’s my favorite trick: attach a 1x2 oak board along the front edge.

It does double duty — keeps the plywood from sagging and makes it look like a solid, thick butcher block slab (without the weight or price tag). Use your brad nailer for this one!


  1. Sand Smooth


Use 220-grit sandpaper and go easy. You’re just smoothing, not stripping.

Over-sanding can cut through the top layer of plywood — ask me how I know.


  1. Build Wall Supports


Install 2x2 cleats directly into your wall studs on all sides. These act like hidden ledges that hold up the counter.

Don’t forget the sides — your laser level is your BFF here.


  1. Add Mid-Span Support


If your counter spans more than six feet, add a 2x4 brace in the middle for extra stability. Mine runs between the washer and dryer — totally hidden, totally solid.


Finishing Touches: Stain, Seal, and Shine



If you’re using multiple types of wood (like plywood + oak trim), this step is crucial.

Brush on, wait 15 minutes, then wipe off the excess. It helps your stain go on evenly and prevents blotches.


  • Apply Your Stain


I used Minwax Coffee Brown Gel Stain — it’s rich, warm, and gives that “real wood” depth.

Let it dry at least 24 hours before moving on to your topcoat.


  • Topcoat Like a Pro


I finished with a water-based polyurethane (to avoid yellowing). It gives a smooth, wipeable finish that’s perfect for a laundry room where life definitely happens.


The Final Reveal


A fully custom, high-end-looking countertop for a fraction of the cost.

It’s lightweight, durable, and fits the space perfectly. And because I built it myself, I got exactly the look I wanted — no compromises, no budget regrets.



Quick Recap


Step

What I Used

Countertop

3/4 inch Maple Plywood

Trim

1x2 Red Oak Board

Supports

2x2 Wall Cleats + 2x4 Center Brace

Stain

Minwax Coffee Brown Gel Stain

Topcoat

Water-based Polyurethane


Shop the Tools I Used

(I earn commission on some of these links at no extra cost to you)




Need More Visuals?


If you are looking for more visual aides, checkout the Instagram post for this project.

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